A fimilar corner

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Hanoi has many special street corners – places with historic significance or great beauty , and place are evoke happy childhood memories . The corners were Hang Hanh turns into Bao Khanh Street is a favorite spots for Hanoians to meet and people-watch. Lan Ha reports on a day at this special corner .
It’s seven a.m , the start of a new day on Hang Hanh Street , the fragrant smell of coffee mixed with scent of China tree flowers in the early morning air . One by one , customers appear , all of them familiar . Little by little the lanes fills up . A crowd of regulars heads for a corner on the second-floor of balcony of Café Nhan . After eating chicken noodle and stick rice with chicken at Number 29 , they stop by for black coffees . Across the street from Café Nhan are some Western travelers , dressed in cargo pants and clutching Lonely Planet guidebooks . They look confident and eager , ready for new discoveries as they tuck into a VND20,000 breakfast of omelets , crisp baguettes and coffee .

As noon draws nearer the café customers thin out . The street corner is less chaotic . Local journalists and artists still linger , their vehicles parked near front door . An artist with a shaven head and a sparse beard plunks down on a chair in the doorway . A journalist , no less artistically dressed , wears a camouflage-print scarf slung casually over shoulder .

“Do you have malaria wearing a blanket in the middle of summer?” jokes the bald artist .
“Ah , my friend who just left gave it to me” , say the journalist , looking a bit embarrassed . He contributes some hot gossip about an art collection scam to the artist clique . The bald artist pretends not to be interested in this tidbit , but this curiousity is obvious .

As the afternoon turns to dusk , rain wets the road , its surface soon stained a deep grey . These days , the weather in Hanoi is strange . This afternoon it has been threatening to pour as it does in Saigon during the rainy season .
People are bringing offerings to the Pha Truc Lam communal house . The sound of wooden bells resound and incense smoke curls into the damp evening air . In the old days the communal house was owned by Phong Lam village , also known as Tram village , and known as Hang Hanh Street . Shoemakers built the communal house to worship the founders of Hanoi ’s leather shoe industry : four tutelary spirits said to have lived during the Le Mac Dynasty ( 15th century) .

The street corner starts to light up and the rain stops . The air is sultry . People start to enter the bars on Bao Khanh Street . The owner of the Polite Pub welcomes regulars who meet here to drink beer after work . The patrons play several games of pool , then call for more beer . To express the concept that “ Vietnam wants to befriend the world” the bar’s owner has a rope with a dozen different national flags in front of the bar . The effect is friendly and cheery .
Interestingly enough , this bar has remained unchanged for the last decade , looking just as it did when it first open. It’s familiar to the both Westerners and Vietnamese . Hanging on the wall is a 50x70cm black and white portrait of Vivien Leigh as Scarlet O’Hara in “Gone with the Wind” , a firm that won nine Oscars . In this old-fashioned space , the amber light is dim and old songs play , but the patrons are lively and the beer flows .

It’s getting late . the music coming from G/C Bar , which lies next door to Polite , is getting quieter . The clientele seems relaxed and friendly . They’d be happy to stay all night except that the bar has to close .
The last of the bar-goers straggle home . And in the morning , at this corner , a new day begins . The writers Nguyen Huy Thiep described is like this : “For many people in the sophistication of Hanoi . Will their day will be long or short , joyful or sad ? All remains unknown inside this cup of coffee …”
~O)~O)~O)~O) A new day , Let 's Cafe'
 
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